Day 26

Just after we left the albergue this morning, less than 1 km into our day we passed the 100 km marker to Santiago. It is a major milestone.

100km to go.

In order to receive your compostella at the cathedral in Santiago (your certificate of completion of the Camino) you need to do at least the last 100 km. You also have to collect at least 2 stamps per day in your credentials.

Many people start their Camino just outside 100 km. The last major community to start in is Sarria. Thus,  many people take a bus to Sarria and start there.


As a result, we have noticed a different mix of pilgrims.  First, there are more, in terms of numbers.  Second, they are all newbies.  I guess it is like getting older.  It’s nice to see the young people, but you like to have contact with folks of your own generation.  We are afraid that we will not run into any of our old friends from earlier on the Camino.  The young (new) pilgrims just don’t have the same experiences to relate to.  The newbies can’t believe we started 4 weeks ago in France.  Most carry little or nothing in terms of a backpack, and stay in hotels.  Oh, for the good old days.

In Portomarin we visited the Knights Templar Church, constructed as a fortress in the 11th century.

Knights Templar Church in Portomarin.

Another pilgrim statue.

Path today.

Path today.

Busy road.

With more us getting closer to Santiago, and more pilgrims on the route there are more albergues, more stores selling pilgrim stuff, and more churches open to collect stamps and light candles in.

We walked for about 3 mi with a guy from New Orleans.  66 yrs old, recently retired, twice divorces. The conversation was monopolized over his long distance running and his beer drinking. He asked us to join him for a beer, but we declined and kept walking.  We figured we had done our good deed for the day.

We ended up stopping in Palas de Rey. At our albergue we had 3 roommates from Madrid - parents on their early 70’s and their 40 yr old son.  They did not speak English, but we were able to communicate some in Spanish.  We also talked with a nice couple from Davis, CA.  We had a Galacian terrific dinner, but by ourselves after attending a pilgrim’s mass.