Day 29 - Rest Day

We slept in a bit, then headed off for breakfast.  Pilgrim’s mass is everyday at noon, so we wanted to be there for it.

Being Sunday the Cathedral holds mass about  every hr starting at 7am. At about 10am we walked by the cathedral and decided to go in for a look.  There was a service in progress and it was packed. We saw a line of people wandering behind the alter, then a skinny door going down some steps about 10 ft behind the alter.  The door had the cross of St James on it.  We went down about 8steps to a small room.  There was a bench to kneel. It fit 3 people. About 6 ft behind an iron gate was an ornate silver box about 3’x2’x2’. Here was St James.

We exited on the other side and as we looked up we saw hands on the large statue of St James about 15 ft above us. We followed several others and came to a line of people waiting to go up. You enter a brief tunnel entrance, then go up about 10 steps. You are now looking over the shoulders of St James about 20 ft behind the alter.  This is in the middle of the service. You place you hands on his shoulders and kiss each one.  It’s all very moving. Unfortunately pictures were not allowed inside the Cathedral. but we snuck this one in.

St. James.

Cathedral complex from city park view.

Tired feet.

Dinner.

Is it really St James’ bones down there?  So legend has it, but even the Catholic Church does not authenticate the authenticity.  But it doesn’t matter.  It’s all very powerful and worth every minute.

We left and went to breakfast, then were back at 11:45 for the noon pilgrim mass.  It was standing room only. There were 100’s standing with more coming in.

The priest began the service by welcoming all the pilgrims.  Then he started reading a list. The city the pilgrim started from, and the countries represented; then the next city and the List of countries, and so on.  It was a long list.  When I heard pilgrims starting in Saint Jean Pied de Port in France, from the United States that was us!

All the while there was a never ending stream of people going up the the statue of St James behind the alter and paying their respects.

After mass we found a different hotel for the night, did laundry at a laundromat, and walked through old town.  Dinner was a huge platter of shellfish and a pitcher of sangria.

Tomorrow we start hiking again. This time for the coast.  Stay tuned.