Notes from day 6

We made great progress yesterday, logging 24.3 mi.  Left just before dawn at 7, light rain for only an hour. The trail was really good. Mostly crushed limestone and not a lot of mud. There were only a few smaller hills. Stopped for breakfast snack about 10 in Los Arcos, then for a rest in Torre del Rio at 1, and another snack break in Viana at 3.

While in Viana we sat with two couples from London - 1 Brit, 1 Welsh, and 2 Irish. They had only 1 week to hike and this was their last day. They were traveling the fancy way: Staying at hotels instead of in hostels and having their luggage transported each day by taxi. Seemed like they were missing the authenticity, but they were quite interested in our experience.

As we talked it began to pour outside. We talked for 30 min, then decided we were going to suit up in our rain gear and head out for the final 6 mi to Logrono. As we put on our rain pants and yellow ponchos in the bar they called us the yellow ducks.

Only had about 15 min of more rain, then dry for the rest of the way.  The rain did make for more mud.  Arrived in Logrono about 5:30.  The first hostel we stopped at cost 18 euros ea, which seemed way high. Walked another couple block to another just off the main square. It was a combined hotel and hostel.  List price in the window was 20 euros for a bed, but the pilgrim rate was only 10. We were shown the open bunk room with lots of young people.  It only had top bunks available.  The lady asked if that was ok. We looked at each other and said it would be fine. Then she said, “wait...come with me”. She led us down the hall to another door.  Opened the door to a small room with only 3 bunk beds and no one else there. We ended up with a private room. First time since Madrid.  She must have taken pity on us due to our advanced age.

After a quick shower we went out to see the town.  5 km outside of town we crossed the border from the Navarre region of Spain into the Rioja region.  Logrono is the capital of Rioja.  This is Spanish wine country. Vineyards everyware. Logrono is also known for its tapas bars.

First we stopped in the enormous beautiful old gilded church.  Stayed for a few minutes of Friday night mass, then walked the old town.  There is a tapas bar areas here that is too incredible to describe.  Each place trying to out do the next with delicious and artistic creations.  It was a great night, but sleep was calling.

This morning, Sat, we are up and ready for another adventure.