Days 16

Day 16 - Monday: Well, we finally over did it.  We made the final 16 mi to Leon today.  Great day weather wise and trail wise, but our bodies had had enough. Both our backs were hurting and we both developed blisters.  Actually, Sue had been nursing hers on her big toe for a few days. Mine was my first blister - on the top outside of my little toe. Nothing like a blister on a long hike to focus the mind.

The final couple miles are always hard, especially coming in to a big city.  We think they re-routed the trail up over the highest ridge in the area - we were up by the radio towers before we descended into the city.  Long walk thru the suburbs and city itself until we made it to the old town.

When we arrived we went to the tourist info office across from the Cathedral to ask for directions the the albergue we wanted to stay at.  It was a 132 bed place that we thought was run by the benedictine monks.  It was an old monastery in old town.  We got to the tourist office at 2:30.  Somehow we forgot we were in Spain, because from 2:00 to 4:30 the office was closed for, you guessed it, siesta. We took a picture of a map on the wall to where our albergue was.  When we arrive 15 min later we realized that we had walked past it on the way into town.  Check in was fine. It had one open room divided into sections with 20 beds ea.  5 euros.

I figured since it was a Benedictine monastery there would be monks.  Times change.  The former monastery is now a luxury hotel. We were in the former old school.  It was run as a private albergue. They did offer a pilgrim blessing at 9 pm, run by the old nuns who still lived next door. We did go.  It was actually 2 younger nuns and 10 really, really old nuns at the service. It was nice, but confusing, and didn’t have the same charm as the previous ones.

Reastaurants, restaurants everywhere but not a bite to eat.  We have had a difficult time adjusting to the culture in Leon. We arrived on Monday which was a Holiday for the independence of Castile and Leon. Many shops, museums, etc closed. All the bars, cafes, and restaurants were open.  Tables outside, people ordering drinks, etc.  But no food.  All the restaurants had signs out with their menus, but the kitchens did not open until 7:30 or 8:00. Drink all you want but you can’t eat...anywhere. And I mean anywhere. I thought maybe it was some kind of fasting thing until sunset.  But nope.  That’s the system. Kitchens close from about 4:00 pm about 7:30 or 8:00 pm.  That’s every day.  Not just the holiday day.  And...7:30 to 8:00 really means after 8:30.  This must be a Leon thing because we have never run into it before.

We decided to stay over a day in Leon to heal, and see some sights. We can only stay in an albergue for one night, so we will have to move tomorrow.

Sights from Leon today:

300 km tp go

Cathedral.

Cool.

Plaza Mayor.

Old town street.

Sue in front of big crests on wall.

That’s me at the bottom.

City wall.